The Island in the Sky - Mount Mulanje

 

It was in Cape Maclear on Lake Malawi that I first heard about the ‘Island in the Sky’.  We were sitting on the deck, watching the sunset over the lake when a fellow traveler started talking about Mount Mulanje. I was mesmerized by her description of the walks and views as she declared her three-day experience as spectacular. With just enough time in my trip and a hankering for a broader experience I set off for Mount Mulanje.  

My journey started in Lilongwe where I caught a 10-hour bus ride to the lake, with every child on the bus confounded and distraught by my pale appearance. They would innocently peer my way and immediately break out into dreadful crying sobs. I was initially alarmed by my effect on the kids but the laughter of the other passengers at the situation reassured me. My time on the lake was a relaxed jaunt that started in the north in the enchanting Nkhata Bay. I liked the town and loved the lake.  It was my first my experience of the ‘Lake of Stars’ and I was enthralled. It was difficult to leave a place that was so beautiful and felt so carefree. As one local so gladly put it, “every day is Christmas here” but I had to keep moving.  I slowed things down at my next destination, the idyllic setting of Monkey Bay, where I dawdled in hammocks and went on afternoon walks into the town.  My third stop was the popular Cape Maclear, where I went on a wonderful boat tour and planned a life that included snorkeling every day.    

From Cape Maclear, under the new advice, I went in a banana-laden mini-bus to Mulanje. This tiny village is at the base of the mountain that shares the same name and is the access point of the hike.  It was late afternoon as we approached along a dirt road through tea plantations and dusty soccer fields. Along the road I caught only fleeting glimpses of the mountain and suggestions of its magnitude. By the time the bus arrived in the town I still couldn’t capture the mountain in one view, it seemed like we had arrived at the side entrance. Emerging from the bananas I was greeted by John, a local mountain guide. He introduced himself and walked with me up to my accommodation at the base of the mountain. As we walked he told me about the hike and the supplies we would need which he would organize. He was an affable, quiet man and he seemed as excited as I was to do the hike. For the third time in my trip I spent the night as the single guest in a lodge, I had unknowingly gone in the rainy season, and went to bed early in anticipation for the next day.

We met in the mist at the entrance and started our ascent briskly. We set off through a sparse wood, crossing a river, passing women and children collecting firewood and later poachers carrying off timber. Blue monkeys played in the trees as the wood thickened and became a lush jungle. We tramped through and came upon steeper terrain and for a few hours it was strenuous work, moving along on our hands and knees.  While I huffed away John told me about the mountain and what it was like to live in the village. Eventually we pushed through the challenging terrain and reached the plateau. As we trekked the few kilometres to the hut the mist lifted and it turned into a bright sunny day. The hut was a simple house run by a warden who spoke no English but every now and then broke into a delightful cackling laugh. Despite being an old man he had a young family and invited us to join them for lunch. His two sons sat impassively staring at me nonchalantly chewing on either end of a rat, while I ate ntsima acting nonplussed.  

 After lunch John took me to the viewpoint. The panorama appeared quickly, almost surprisingly, as if we stumbled onto it. The drop to the tea plantations was severe and allowed an unhindered view of the surrounding area. Out of this plain Mulanje rises up with no warning, a geological surprise, like an African Ayers Rock, staggering and magnificent.

We were silent as we took in the sweeping vista. Sitting and staring out over the land I thought that this was a perfect finish to a memorable and refreshing two weeks in Malawi. The lake had been the main attraction but the string of unique experiences and happy faces had made the holiday even more special. I sat savouring the moment, cherishing the view and praising the genuine friendliness, natural beauty and joyful spirit of Malawi. We eventually turned and started back to the hut.